Orphans n Bushmen - Namibia 2011
It was a while ago now, but my memories of this trip still stay with me. I hope you enjoy some of my memories too.
Flying into the unknown
It was an auspicious date to fly. The 10th anniversary of the bombing of the Trade Center in New York by aircraft. I was bound for Namibia, South West Africa.
I had wanted to challenge myself for some time, and my greatest fear was travelling alone. Oh, I loved to travel, just as long as I had someone else with me, someone I knew well and could trust to help me out if I got into trouble.
So one day whilst roaming my favorite Permaculture Forum, I happened upon a post from a lady in Namibia looking for ideas on how to raise money to pay for a Permaculture Consultant from South Africa, to come and teach orphans in a program she was running, on how to grow their own food.
Without thinking too much about it, (because I knew if I did I would back out), I offered to fly over and spend 4 weeks with her, providing education sessions to orphans and disadvantaged children in Namibia, for free. Little did I know, I would also be given the opportunity to teach another group of humanity all together - one that would change my soul forever.
The flight has gone well so far, but despite popping half a Valium to try to get some sleep, in the vain attempt to ward off jet-lag, my body clock is having none of it.
Quite a bit of commotion at the window behind me pulled me away from the extremely frustrating game of chess I was playing, to find that we are flying past the South Pole!
What an incredible sight it was. I have taken a heap of photos of course, and have promised to email the 2 girls sitting next to me, as they weren't carrying cameras.
I had wanted to challenge myself for some time, and my greatest fear was travelling alone. Oh, I loved to travel, just as long as I had someone else with me, someone I knew well and could trust to help me out if I got into trouble.
So one day whilst roaming my favorite Permaculture Forum, I happened upon a post from a lady in Namibia looking for ideas on how to raise money to pay for a Permaculture Consultant from South Africa, to come and teach orphans in a program she was running, on how to grow their own food.
Without thinking too much about it, (because I knew if I did I would back out), I offered to fly over and spend 4 weeks with her, providing education sessions to orphans and disadvantaged children in Namibia, for free. Little did I know, I would also be given the opportunity to teach another group of humanity all together - one that would change my soul forever.
The flight has gone well so far, but despite popping half a Valium to try to get some sleep, in the vain attempt to ward off jet-lag, my body clock is having none of it.
Quite a bit of commotion at the window behind me pulled me away from the extremely frustrating game of chess I was playing, to find that we are flying past the South Pole!
What an incredible sight it was. I have taken a heap of photos of course, and have promised to email the 2 girls sitting next to me, as they weren't carrying cameras.
We are 8 hours from Johannesburg. Maybe I should take the other half of that Valium and get some shut-eye? My concern is that I then find myself groggy as I try to navigate Joburb Airport to my connecting flight.
We left Sydney an hour and 15 minutes late, so I'm hoping that I can still manage to get my connecting flight.
I have to admit, last night I was really scared about leaving home and my Partner Paul. It was the same fear that I used to feel before starting a new school (I went to 9 different schools growing up). That deep insecurity and desperation at missing my home and being in an environment I didn't understand, and having no way out. It made me realise all of a sudden why it is that I've never been able to travel by myself before. I've just never been able to face it. But here I am, facing it finally. Wow! It was obviously time to face my demons. The terror I felt last night made me realise just how powerful that particular demon has been over my life.
I've been ok today though. It was hard saying bye to Paul, but at least he didn't come into the airport with me. That would have been excrutiating.
The flight dragged on and I tried to sleep but couldn't. I must have rested a bit though, because I still feel awake and I've just been through a bit of a nightmare. I am now sitting in a motel room in Joburg, having missed my connecting flight to Windhoek, Namibia.
Joburg Airport is extremely inefficient. I couldn't find anyone to help me and kept getting directed all over the place. I chased my tail for a good 2 hours before I finally found the right desk to help me. And of course, when I did find them, they were very efficient!
Qantas the dear souls have put me up at a hotel for the night. I called Ellen Vandenberg from the Philidelphia Organisation, who I will be working with in Namibia, and who was planning to pick me up today. I told her what had happened and she seemed a bit disappointed but fairly-well used to that type of thing. I then called Paul (which was 4am in the morning for him) to blubber over the phone.
Dinner is included in the room for the night but I can't even think of leaving the room, so I've made a cup of tea and have eaten 2 biscuits, and the rest of my chocolate honeycomb. That's dinner. Up at 6:30am tomorrow.
We left Sydney an hour and 15 minutes late, so I'm hoping that I can still manage to get my connecting flight.
I have to admit, last night I was really scared about leaving home and my Partner Paul. It was the same fear that I used to feel before starting a new school (I went to 9 different schools growing up). That deep insecurity and desperation at missing my home and being in an environment I didn't understand, and having no way out. It made me realise all of a sudden why it is that I've never been able to travel by myself before. I've just never been able to face it. But here I am, facing it finally. Wow! It was obviously time to face my demons. The terror I felt last night made me realise just how powerful that particular demon has been over my life.
I've been ok today though. It was hard saying bye to Paul, but at least he didn't come into the airport with me. That would have been excrutiating.
The flight dragged on and I tried to sleep but couldn't. I must have rested a bit though, because I still feel awake and I've just been through a bit of a nightmare. I am now sitting in a motel room in Joburg, having missed my connecting flight to Windhoek, Namibia.
Joburg Airport is extremely inefficient. I couldn't find anyone to help me and kept getting directed all over the place. I chased my tail for a good 2 hours before I finally found the right desk to help me. And of course, when I did find them, they were very efficient!
Qantas the dear souls have put me up at a hotel for the night. I called Ellen Vandenberg from the Philidelphia Organisation, who I will be working with in Namibia, and who was planning to pick me up today. I told her what had happened and she seemed a bit disappointed but fairly-well used to that type of thing. I then called Paul (which was 4am in the morning for him) to blubber over the phone.
Dinner is included in the room for the night but I can't even think of leaving the room, so I've made a cup of tea and have eaten 2 biscuits, and the rest of my chocolate honeycomb. That's dinner. Up at 6:30am tomorrow.
Off to Windhoek (pronounced Vindhook)
Sitting at the airport (finally), waiting to board for Windhoek (which is pronounced 'Vindhook' for we dumb Aussies).
What a morning! Woke up at 2am thinking it was time to spring out of bed and face the day. I had to force myself to stay in bed and try to sleep again. it took about an hour but I must have managed it because I had the most bizarre dream (which I won't bore you with here).
The breakfast was divine! A buffet with all the goodies. I ate and ate I was so hungry. My stomach started growling at 2 this morning after all.
The airport adventure was almost as bad as last night. These people must make it their life's mission to be as unhelpful and difficult as possible. The flight boards told me to go to Terminal A, and when I got there, they said to got to Terminal B. These two points were a long way from one another, and with a 10 minute walk with a lot of carry-on baggage, and heavy at that, it wasn't much fun.
I'm finally booked on a flight to Windhoek, but I have serious doubts as to whether my bag is going to find me, or me it. You see, last night while trying to find it, they said they would bring it up to the carousels, but then I didn't get it. They are just not efficient enough to get this right. Talk about a world away from Hong Kong!!
Well, I arrived in Windoek and to my utter amazement, there was my bag! Seriously? How did they manage that? Never mind, they had something else to trip me up with.
Filling out the forms to enter Namibia. What is the address you will be staying at? I don't know! I'm being picked up by a lovely lady and we plan to stay in a number of places over the next 4 weeks. I didn't know the addresses! Seems that wasn't good enough for the Customs Clerk. No, go away until you know where you will be staying. Great, no phone, I'm standing in a building not much better than a tin shed, desert as far as the eye can see, stuck in Namibian customs, I can't leave and the Clerk refuses to help. Excellent.
As the last of the flight is about to pass through the gates and leave me all on my own, I quickly pull on a woman's arm just before she leaves. "Please, tell me the address where you are staying". No, she wouldn't. Ok, I'll try this... Grootfontein Hotel, Grootfontein. Stepped up to the Clerk, and sure enough, he accepts that. By this time I was sweating badly and so close to tears. I walked through the gates and there was Ellen and Leonie to pick me up. If I had have known them I would have broken down in tears of relief right there and then, but I managed to hold it together.
We jumped in Ellen's car, which was brand new, and we headed out of Windhoek, North toward a small town called Otavi. On the drive I saw Baboons, Warthogs, Guinea Fowl, 2 Orix, a Cudu, a baby Deer and an Eagle. The landscape is dry and studded with squat thorn trees. As we left Windoek I noticed larger trees bearing pods, which Ellen explained were harvested for cattle food but were considered to be non-indigenous and thus bad for the environment. I begged to differ. They were nitrogen-fixing trees that provided food and were thriving in an otherwise barren landscape. They should be encouraged wherever possible!
What a morning! Woke up at 2am thinking it was time to spring out of bed and face the day. I had to force myself to stay in bed and try to sleep again. it took about an hour but I must have managed it because I had the most bizarre dream (which I won't bore you with here).
The breakfast was divine! A buffet with all the goodies. I ate and ate I was so hungry. My stomach started growling at 2 this morning after all.
The airport adventure was almost as bad as last night. These people must make it their life's mission to be as unhelpful and difficult as possible. The flight boards told me to go to Terminal A, and when I got there, they said to got to Terminal B. These two points were a long way from one another, and with a 10 minute walk with a lot of carry-on baggage, and heavy at that, it wasn't much fun.
I'm finally booked on a flight to Windhoek, but I have serious doubts as to whether my bag is going to find me, or me it. You see, last night while trying to find it, they said they would bring it up to the carousels, but then I didn't get it. They are just not efficient enough to get this right. Talk about a world away from Hong Kong!!
Well, I arrived in Windoek and to my utter amazement, there was my bag! Seriously? How did they manage that? Never mind, they had something else to trip me up with.
Filling out the forms to enter Namibia. What is the address you will be staying at? I don't know! I'm being picked up by a lovely lady and we plan to stay in a number of places over the next 4 weeks. I didn't know the addresses! Seems that wasn't good enough for the Customs Clerk. No, go away until you know where you will be staying. Great, no phone, I'm standing in a building not much better than a tin shed, desert as far as the eye can see, stuck in Namibian customs, I can't leave and the Clerk refuses to help. Excellent.
As the last of the flight is about to pass through the gates and leave me all on my own, I quickly pull on a woman's arm just before she leaves. "Please, tell me the address where you are staying". No, she wouldn't. Ok, I'll try this... Grootfontein Hotel, Grootfontein. Stepped up to the Clerk, and sure enough, he accepts that. By this time I was sweating badly and so close to tears. I walked through the gates and there was Ellen and Leonie to pick me up. If I had have known them I would have broken down in tears of relief right there and then, but I managed to hold it together.
We jumped in Ellen's car, which was brand new, and we headed out of Windhoek, North toward a small town called Otavi. On the drive I saw Baboons, Warthogs, Guinea Fowl, 2 Orix, a Cudu, a baby Deer and an Eagle. The landscape is dry and studded with squat thorn trees. As we left Windoek I noticed larger trees bearing pods, which Ellen explained were harvested for cattle food but were considered to be non-indigenous and thus bad for the environment. I begged to differ. They were nitrogen-fixing trees that provided food and were thriving in an otherwise barren landscape. They should be encouraged wherever possible!
We arrived late afternoon at a hotel-type place in the middle of nowhere. It was actually really nice; built in a traditional style.
Ellen and Leonie had met with the Managers recently and made bookings. They showed me to my room which was really lovely. I showered and went for a little walk. I was very tired, and met up with Ellen and Leonie in the dining room. They were also tired and we just wanted to have dinner and go to bed early. Unfortunately, the Manager wasn't expecting this, and had planned to cook a slow cooked lamb and mashed potato for dinner. Nothing was going to deter him I'm afraid, so thinking for some reason that he needed to entertain us, he spent his time (rather than preparing our meal), talking to us. We finally ate around 9:30pm and we all just crawled back to our rooms. I put up my mosquito net and slept very well until about 4am.
Ellen and Leonie had met with the Managers recently and made bookings. They showed me to my room which was really lovely. I showered and went for a little walk. I was very tired, and met up with Ellen and Leonie in the dining room. They were also tired and we just wanted to have dinner and go to bed early. Unfortunately, the Manager wasn't expecting this, and had planned to cook a slow cooked lamb and mashed potato for dinner. Nothing was going to deter him I'm afraid, so thinking for some reason that he needed to entertain us, he spent his time (rather than preparing our meal), talking to us. We finally ate around 9:30pm and we all just crawled back to our rooms. I put up my mosquito net and slept very well until about 4am.
The work starts
Even though it was still dark, I had to get up at 6 as I just couldn't stay any longer.
I had a nice cup of tea until I was able to see outside then I went for a nice long walk up behind the property. What a fabulous experience! I didn't see any wildlife except birds unfortunately, but the sun was so amazing. Bright iridescent red. Against the burnt gnarled trees it was breathtaking.
I had a nice cup of tea until I was able to see outside then I went for a nice long walk up behind the property. What a fabulous experience! I didn't see any wildlife except birds unfortunately, but the sun was so amazing. Bright iridescent red. Against the burnt gnarled trees it was breathtaking.
Everyone speaks Africans. I find it isolating to not know what everyone is saying.
There are hunters staying her as well. They are all getting around in their cammo outfits. Apparently they are professional hunters and they must have permits. There are thousands of acres of land dedicated to Game Farms, where they can come and shoot wild animals. I expressed my displeasure about it to Ellen but she maintains that it is necessary to keep the population levels in check. A bit like Kangaroos in Australia? Still, it was all I could do not to spit at them I must be honest.
I've just finished going through all of the content and planning for the upcoming education sessions and workshops with Ellen. We are really winging this because we don't know how much the children will be able to understand me. She is not sure how well they understand English, and my 'Aussie' accent, although not pronounced by any means, may make it difficult for them. Luckily I have prepared a lot of pictures in my presentations, hopefully making things easier to understand, and Ellen has a very good grasp of the Permaculture concepts, so she can translate if necessary.
We drove to Otavi at 11am. I got a photo of deer they call Blesbok (White Face Impala)
There are hunters staying her as well. They are all getting around in their cammo outfits. Apparently they are professional hunters and they must have permits. There are thousands of acres of land dedicated to Game Farms, where they can come and shoot wild animals. I expressed my displeasure about it to Ellen but she maintains that it is necessary to keep the population levels in check. A bit like Kangaroos in Australia? Still, it was all I could do not to spit at them I must be honest.
I've just finished going through all of the content and planning for the upcoming education sessions and workshops with Ellen. We are really winging this because we don't know how much the children will be able to understand me. She is not sure how well they understand English, and my 'Aussie' accent, although not pronounced by any means, may make it difficult for them. Luckily I have prepared a lot of pictures in my presentations, hopefully making things easier to understand, and Ellen has a very good grasp of the Permaculture concepts, so she can translate if necessary.
We drove to Otavi at 11am. I got a photo of deer they call Blesbok (White Face Impala)
We visited the first project in Otavi, just to take a look around. A block of land with a lot of rubbish all over it, and an Angolan gardener in one of the garden plots trying to aerate the clay soil while water flooded it. He can't speak any English or any other language spoken her. He will be interesting to work with. I think from what I can make out, Ellen has arranged with the owner to conduct some workshops here, and invite the locals. As it turned out, this project didn't go ahead, so we never did come back.
The town of Otavi is so unkempt. There is a children's playground but it is very run down. They appear to have access to water, which I understand to be from bores into the artesian basin which is a huge underground lake; the largest in Africa. I was later to learn that another town we visit; Grootfontein, means Great Fountain in English, and that in fact there was a fountain there, before Windhoek started to tap into the great lake for themselves, drying it up considerably.
We went and had lunch in a cafe in the local supermarket. It was surprisingly good; a fresh meat patty and vegetable sandwich.
Leonie pictured here eating well.
We went and had lunch in a cafe in the local supermarket. It was surprisingly good; a fresh meat patty and vegetable sandwich.
Leonie pictured here eating well.
We then headed off to the second project in Otavi. This was a school with a boarding school attached. Many of these children are orphans and this is such a poor school.
But wow! These children are so keen! What a pleasure to see. They were so enthusiastic and understood me very well. We did two of the modules; "What is Permaculture" and "No-Dig Garden Beds". They were all sent home to collect mulch, manure and cardboard boxes. All of this stuff is lying around everywhere and easily accessible to them for free. Animals walk around freely without fences. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, as we are going to build a garden bed together.
I found a power adapter at lunch time, which I was thrilled to get. I also brought a heap of gardening stuff and some fig trees at the local nursery. This would be a good time to mention the money my friends and colleagues gave me before I went away, to spend as I needed on my venture. I had approximately $500AUD which equated to a lot more in Namibia.
But wow! These children are so keen! What a pleasure to see. They were so enthusiastic and understood me very well. We did two of the modules; "What is Permaculture" and "No-Dig Garden Beds". They were all sent home to collect mulch, manure and cardboard boxes. All of this stuff is lying around everywhere and easily accessible to them for free. Animals walk around freely without fences. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, as we are going to build a garden bed together.
I found a power adapter at lunch time, which I was thrilled to get. I also brought a heap of gardening stuff and some fig trees at the local nursery. This would be a good time to mention the money my friends and colleagues gave me before I went away, to spend as I needed on my venture. I had approximately $500AUD which equated to a lot more in Namibia.
We headed back to the hotel for the day, and on the way out of the school I saw two boys who had not been in school for the day. They both looked incredibly sad and uncared for. I asked Ellen to stop and I gave them an orange each. The look on their face was priceless. I doubt they have ever eaten an orange in their life.
I'm sitting here with the girls waiting for dinner. It looks like arriving late again! I was wondering why the people who manage this place employ the black people when they could clearly do everything themselves. According to Ellen, they would get a lot of grief from the local people if they didn't.
I have a very bad back now and despite stretching, I have bad sciatica.
We had dinner finally and then desert which they called a Dom Pedro, which is an ice cream thick shake with whisky or Kahlua. I had the whisky and of course it was very nice.
The Manager's name is Atman. He is South African and very egotistical. He decided to grace us with his presence all night again and managed to tell us how good he is throughout the evening.
I asked Ellen about the AIDS situation in Namibia. It sounds like its very bad up where they live in the North. Depression and the ensuing lack of motivation has set in badly among the adult population. They live for today only and never plan or prepare for the future. Gardening therefore is something they are not motivated to become involved in.
Men have many wives, so managing the spread of the disease is difficult. According to Ellen, the black people believe there is a hidden agenda when they are taught about condoms or abstinence. They believe the white man is trying to stop the blacks having children.
The shortage of adults means that the remaining adults have a much harder time raising all the children left and taking care of all the hard work.
While there are many orphans in Namibia, they tend to be cared for by relatives and friends who take them in, but this just puts greater strain on the adults to be able to feed the family, thus the need for assistance through schooling programs.
All of the schools we visited provided lunch to the children every day. The Philadelphia Organisation was one of a number of charity organisations I met with that regularly provide food to the schools, as it is not provided by the state.
I have a very bad back now and despite stretching, I have bad sciatica.
We had dinner finally and then desert which they called a Dom Pedro, which is an ice cream thick shake with whisky or Kahlua. I had the whisky and of course it was very nice.
The Manager's name is Atman. He is South African and very egotistical. He decided to grace us with his presence all night again and managed to tell us how good he is throughout the evening.
I asked Ellen about the AIDS situation in Namibia. It sounds like its very bad up where they live in the North. Depression and the ensuing lack of motivation has set in badly among the adult population. They live for today only and never plan or prepare for the future. Gardening therefore is something they are not motivated to become involved in.
Men have many wives, so managing the spread of the disease is difficult. According to Ellen, the black people believe there is a hidden agenda when they are taught about condoms or abstinence. They believe the white man is trying to stop the blacks having children.
The shortage of adults means that the remaining adults have a much harder time raising all the children left and taking care of all the hard work.
While there are many orphans in Namibia, they tend to be cared for by relatives and friends who take them in, but this just puts greater strain on the adults to be able to feed the family, thus the need for assistance through schooling programs.
All of the schools we visited provided lunch to the children every day. The Philadelphia Organisation was one of a number of charity organisations I met with that regularly provide food to the schools, as it is not provided by the state.
Feeding the children
I'm sitting in the car on the way back to Otavi. We have a heap of plants in the back, as well as the bread and butter we bought yesterday for the children. Many of the children have no food in the morning and as such their attention levels wane easily. They are lucky if they get one meal a day Ellen tells me.
I slept right through this morning till 7:10am! It was late. I hadn't set my alarm because I thought I would be awake at 4am again. Woops!
I'm really excited about today. With such a willing and energised audience, we will achieve beauty I'm sure.
Well, the children absolutely loved our day. We made the beginnings of a mandala garden with a pond in the middle. They learn so fast and are so willing and eager to do the hard work.
I only had to show them how to make a raised garden bed once, then they were off!
Once we had made two, there was no more mulch left, so I asked them what they wanted to do. They unanamously screamed they would go and get more!
All of the things they need are right on their doorstep. Animals roam around the school everywhere, so manure is readily available. Lots of goat manure I noticed. Straw is everywhere, as are rocks for border and berns. They have water on tap, and while it could be better and be tank water, at least they have it available.
My favorite girl has something wrong with her right eye. She told me that it was a cobra that bit her on the eye! I think she is telling me the truth.
I asked her if she would like to write to me, she said yes, definitely, then two other girls heard and wanted to do so as well. Before I knew it, I had 20 of them wanting my address!
Before we left, we gave each of the children a sandwich and an orange. They were so grateful, it made me feel incredibly humble.
I slept right through this morning till 7:10am! It was late. I hadn't set my alarm because I thought I would be awake at 4am again. Woops!
I'm really excited about today. With such a willing and energised audience, we will achieve beauty I'm sure.
Well, the children absolutely loved our day. We made the beginnings of a mandala garden with a pond in the middle. They learn so fast and are so willing and eager to do the hard work.
I only had to show them how to make a raised garden bed once, then they were off!
Once we had made two, there was no more mulch left, so I asked them what they wanted to do. They unanamously screamed they would go and get more!
All of the things they need are right on their doorstep. Animals roam around the school everywhere, so manure is readily available. Lots of goat manure I noticed. Straw is everywhere, as are rocks for border and berns. They have water on tap, and while it could be better and be tank water, at least they have it available.
My favorite girl has something wrong with her right eye. She told me that it was a cobra that bit her on the eye! I think she is telling me the truth.
I asked her if she would like to write to me, she said yes, definitely, then two other girls heard and wanted to do so as well. Before I knew it, I had 20 of them wanting my address!
Before we left, we gave each of the children a sandwich and an orange. They were so grateful, it made me feel incredibly humble.
Ellen, Leonie and I then drove an hour to Tsumeb (pronounced Choomeb) to see the project there. This school was actually an outreach center that looks after 250 children. They have a few trees that have food, like citrus and custard apple. They do have a vegetable garden, but like all vegetable gardens I've seen (when you do find them), they plant directly into the clay, and use no mulch. They have a metal frame over the garden, which they want to put shade cloth over to stop the surrounding people from coming in and steeling the food.
This is a major issue for them. Local children and even adults will break fences in order to get to fresh food grown in gardens. It becomes very dispiriting for them, and this leads to a lack of motivation.
This whole center is available to us to do anything to, and it would be so fantastic to have the funds to do a full Permaculture design and implement it. Unfortunately I don't have the time and there are no resources to undertake such a project.
The woman running the center explained that the adults who come in do not want to do anything. They only want hand-outs, they don't want to work for anything. They also live for today, so they can't see the point in gardening, as it doesn't produce anything straight away. They have a bread baking program at the center, which is highly successful because there is an instant reward (or same day at least).
This is a major issue for them. Local children and even adults will break fences in order to get to fresh food grown in gardens. It becomes very dispiriting for them, and this leads to a lack of motivation.
This whole center is available to us to do anything to, and it would be so fantastic to have the funds to do a full Permaculture design and implement it. Unfortunately I don't have the time and there are no resources to undertake such a project.
The woman running the center explained that the adults who come in do not want to do anything. They only want hand-outs, they don't want to work for anything. They also live for today, so they can't see the point in gardening, as it doesn't produce anything straight away. They have a bread baking program at the center, which is highly successful because there is an instant reward (or same day at least).
Tsumeb is a very pretty town, all things considered. The Council is very well managed apparently and the town runs very well.
We stopped for refreshment at the service station and got fuel. I had a waffle and a smoothy. Like everything I've tasted so far, they use way more sugar in everything than I'm used to, but it was nice. I can see I'm going to put on weight while I'm here. Not what I was expecting on a trip to Africa!
We then took a drive out of town, following a real estate agent. The girls have the idea they want to buy some land and set up a Permaculture Centre where they can bring children for a term, and teach them.
We traveled through some very interesting country-side which was full of irrigated farming activity on a big scale.
We had a look at land with a respectable house and grounds on it. I thought it was great, except the black worker on the farm informed the girls that a black settlement was planned for the land next door. That was enough to put them off. A settlement next door would mean regular burglaries as well as theft of any food grown on the land.
We stopped for refreshment at the service station and got fuel. I had a waffle and a smoothy. Like everything I've tasted so far, they use way more sugar in everything than I'm used to, but it was nice. I can see I'm going to put on weight while I'm here. Not what I was expecting on a trip to Africa!
We then took a drive out of town, following a real estate agent. The girls have the idea they want to buy some land and set up a Permaculture Centre where they can bring children for a term, and teach them.
We traveled through some very interesting country-side which was full of irrigated farming activity on a big scale.
We had a look at land with a respectable house and grounds on it. I thought it was great, except the black worker on the farm informed the girls that a black settlement was planned for the land next door. That was enough to put them off. A settlement next door would mean regular burglaries as well as theft of any food grown on the land.
We then headed back to Otavi so that we could show the kids how to plant into the garden.
When we got there, they were digging the banana circle and had collected more rocks and mulch. They wanted to build the banana circle right away!
They dug as much as they could, but the clay was so compacted and dry it was like rock. We put some more water in the dirt to soften overnight.
We planted all of the plants and they were so excited! We watered them all in. I have half of them a pen each, promising the others theirs the next day. The girls wanted my contact details, so I gave them the four copies I had written out. Then everybody wanted it, so I said they had to copy it from each other.
When we got there, they were digging the banana circle and had collected more rocks and mulch. They wanted to build the banana circle right away!
They dug as much as they could, but the clay was so compacted and dry it was like rock. We put some more water in the dirt to soften overnight.
We planted all of the plants and they were so excited! We watered them all in. I have half of them a pen each, promising the others theirs the next day. The girls wanted my contact details, so I gave them the four copies I had written out. Then everybody wanted it, so I said they had to copy it from each other.
One girl gave me her photo. I was later to realise why.
Just before we left for the day, I have them a spray bottle to use for compost tea. The girls got hold of it and started to spray one another in the face. I have some great photos of this. In the photos, it looks like they were hamming it up for the camera, but they weren't as they didn't realise I was there for ages.
Just before we left for the day, I have them a spray bottle to use for compost tea. The girls got hold of it and started to spray one another in the face. I have some great photos of this. In the photos, it looks like they were hamming it up for the camera, but they weren't as they didn't realise I was there for ages.
We drove back to the lodge and I must have had sun stroke I think. I was very headachy and incredibly tired. The owner still hadn't started cooking at 7pm (again), so we didn't end up eating till 8:30, which nearly killed me! Dinner was Mexican, but not like any I've ever had. It was surprisingly good however.
I slept very well.
I slept very well.
Banana circle and seed raising
This morning was spent with the kids at Otavi, building the banana circle, and teaching them about raising seeds. I got them scouting around the school to find old soft drink bottles to use as planters. There is rubbish everywhere, so this was not difficult. I wondered how we would cut the tops off, and the teacher produced a knife, which one of the students took, and started to cut the tops of the bottles. This was perfectly acceptable, nobody even batted an eyelid. I could just see that happening in Australia (not)!
I taught them how to make seed raising mix and how to plant the seeds. Everyone planted some of the heirloom seed I'd brought with me from Australia into their numerous punnets that they had made, and watered them well. They all took them home to look after. They will bring them back to plant when they are big enough. This gives them responsibility and ownership and you could see how excited they were. All the kids chose to plant different things. They are going to have heaps of plants. Ellen chose not to leave any seed with them, prefering to promise to give them some later if they raise their plants well.
During a break, one of the girls invited me to her house to see one of her plants. It was about a 5 minute walk from the school. We got there and it was a shack built of all sorts of things. It was neat and tidy inside, but oh so poor and primitive. Her family and two aunts and their children all lived in the same house. That girl said she loved school.
As we were about to leave, all the kids wanted a hug. The teachers wanted photos with me, and one girl bent over and cried and cried. She was so embarrassed, she couldn't give me a hug. Turns out she was the one who gave me her photo. The other girls told me she wanted to go to Australia with me. Its strange, because she didn't stand out to me during the workshops, but I clearly made an impact on her.
I got in the car and started crying myself, I was so overwhelmed. Later Ellen told me that the girl who was crying was the one who worked so very hard but didn't say a word. I remember her fairly well now.
As we were about to leave, all the kids wanted a hug. The teachers wanted photos with me, and one girl bent over and cried and cried. She was so embarrassed, she couldn't give me a hug. Turns out she was the one who gave me her photo. The other girls told me she wanted to go to Australia with me. Its strange, because she didn't stand out to me during the workshops, but I clearly made an impact on her.
I got in the car and started crying myself, I was so overwhelmed. Later Ellen told me that the girl who was crying was the one who worked so very hard but didn't say a word. I remember her fairly well now.
A note here on the teachers that were head of our two classrooms of kids. Miss was a beautiful woman in her 20s who dressed so smartly and Mr was a gorgeous you man in his late 20s. His real name was Epaphras Cowboy Ndumbu and boy if I had been half my age! What a hunk. He is hoping I will raise some funds for some sports equipment like a netball or soccer ball. [When I got back home to Australia, a colleague at work asked if there was anything he could do. He just happened to have several pairs of soccer boots that their kids didn't need any more. I gave him Ellen's address and he sent them to her to give to this teacher. They took a good 6 weeks to get to her, but she did pass them on to the delight of the children.]
Leonie went back to Windhoek and Ellen and I went back to the lodge. We picked up our bags and collected a heap of plants that the owners had given us from their own shade-house and paid the bill. I also gave the owner a download of my workshop sheets.
We then drove to Grootfontein. This one is harder to pronounce, and not one that I can spell in English. If you can imagine clearing the back of your throat, followed by a 'hootfontaine' you would get close.
Ellen and Leonie have a townhouse in Grootfontein, and this is where we will be staying now for a while. I'm sitting at the table and we have just gone out for some groceries and we can cook for ourselves now. Now we can eat at a civilised time for dinner!
I cooked a vegetarian pasta and it was lovely.
Leonie went back to Windhoek and Ellen and I went back to the lodge. We picked up our bags and collected a heap of plants that the owners had given us from their own shade-house and paid the bill. I also gave the owner a download of my workshop sheets.
We then drove to Grootfontein. This one is harder to pronounce, and not one that I can spell in English. If you can imagine clearing the back of your throat, followed by a 'hootfontaine' you would get close.
Ellen and Leonie have a townhouse in Grootfontein, and this is where we will be staying now for a while. I'm sitting at the table and we have just gone out for some groceries and we can cook for ourselves now. Now we can eat at a civilised time for dinner!
I cooked a vegetarian pasta and it was lovely.
A Namibian garden comes to life
Ellen and I slept in until about 8:30am. We did a load of washing and I made a nice bircher breakfast and washed up.
We then headed out to a hardware store for some more supplies and then had a drink at a cafe. Ellen loves her coffee!
Ellen took me to the plot of land she has been granted access to by a local machinery yard. He has generously given her about 100sqm of land to grow food on. The yard is fully enclosed in high wire fences and is guarded 24/7. This is the area she wants to turn into a demonstration garden and education centre.
We started off by talking about a design, then agreed on a herb spiral and a pond in the centre. A garden bed along the fence will allow the locals to pick the food and she is happy to sacrifice it to stop them breaking the fence to get in for the rest.
We went off and collected a heap of rocks for the pond and herb spiral and then with the help of a chap she has employed, we built the pond. It looks fantastic!
We then headed out to a hardware store for some more supplies and then had a drink at a cafe. Ellen loves her coffee!
Ellen took me to the plot of land she has been granted access to by a local machinery yard. He has generously given her about 100sqm of land to grow food on. The yard is fully enclosed in high wire fences and is guarded 24/7. This is the area she wants to turn into a demonstration garden and education centre.
We started off by talking about a design, then agreed on a herb spiral and a pond in the centre. A garden bed along the fence will allow the locals to pick the food and she is happy to sacrifice it to stop them breaking the fence to get in for the rest.
We went off and collected a heap of rocks for the pond and herb spiral and then with the help of a chap she has employed, we built the pond. It looks fantastic!
Ellen and I went back to the unit for lunch, which I made and now I'm going to have a nap, which Ellen is already doing. The weather is very hot and this hard work is taking it out of me!
In the afternoon we went back to the garden and finished the pond and almost finished the herb spiral. We will complete that tomorrow. We put together the design for the plot and Ellen is very excited. I must admit, the pond is looking really lovely and has already attracted a native bee and a wasp! Its amazing, as the weather and landscape is so dry, I haven't seen any insect life anywhere, and as soon as we build a pond - they arrive.
While we were working, one of Ellen's friends came by with the carcass of a giraffe in the back of a truck. It had been shot at a game park and given away to the poor folk. She dropped some off for the workers that were working for us and others around the area. I got some photos of what looked like the rib cage and neck bones being carried to our workers.
In the afternoon we went back to the garden and finished the pond and almost finished the herb spiral. We will complete that tomorrow. We put together the design for the plot and Ellen is very excited. I must admit, the pond is looking really lovely and has already attracted a native bee and a wasp! Its amazing, as the weather and landscape is so dry, I haven't seen any insect life anywhere, and as soon as we build a pond - they arrive.
While we were working, one of Ellen's friends came by with the carcass of a giraffe in the back of a truck. It had been shot at a game park and given away to the poor folk. She dropped some off for the workers that were working for us and others around the area. I got some photos of what looked like the rib cage and neck bones being carried to our workers.
The young white boy in the photos is one of the many foster children that are sent to Namibia from Germany aparently. According to Ellen, they are troubled children who are either from domestic abuse, child sexual abuse or drug abuse families. They are taken here by families and sent to school and made to work very hard. According to Ellen the program is very successful and even though the children are allowed to go back to Germany when they are 18, many return here as the prefer it.
Ellen informed me that she has two volunteers that have been staying with them up North at their property in Kavango, and they will be coming down next week. We have sent them a message asking them to bring down some water plants for the pond. It is going to be essential that we shade the water somehow, and water plants are not plentiful in Grootfontein. She has asked me whether I would give them, her and Leonie a PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate) from my own notes and knowledge. I told them I'm not registered to do so, and the course would not be the same as doing a real one, but I will give them whatever knowledge I can.
I went and had a shower and washed my hair. The artesian water is so hard and my hair feels horrible. Ellen tells me I'm going to love the water up North at their other property. It is river water and as soft as silk. Can't wait for that!
Ellen and Leonie took me to a local restaurant for dinner, which was just out of town. It was made in a traditional manner with thatched roof. We ended up eating here a few times, and the last one gave both Ellen and I food poisoning. I had an oxtail stew which they called a Potjie (pronounced Poikee). It was very nice but incredibly fattening I'm sure.
Ellen informed me that she has two volunteers that have been staying with them up North at their property in Kavango, and they will be coming down next week. We have sent them a message asking them to bring down some water plants for the pond. It is going to be essential that we shade the water somehow, and water plants are not plentiful in Grootfontein. She has asked me whether I would give them, her and Leonie a PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate) from my own notes and knowledge. I told them I'm not registered to do so, and the course would not be the same as doing a real one, but I will give them whatever knowledge I can.
I went and had a shower and washed my hair. The artesian water is so hard and my hair feels horrible. Ellen tells me I'm going to love the water up North at their other property. It is river water and as soft as silk. Can't wait for that!
Ellen and Leonie took me to a local restaurant for dinner, which was just out of town. It was made in a traditional manner with thatched roof. We ended up eating here a few times, and the last one gave both Ellen and I food poisoning. I had an oxtail stew which they called a Potjie (pronounced Poikee). It was very nice but incredibly fattening I'm sure.
Picture top middle is the lovely Ellen; who has devoted her life to assisting the orphans and disadvantaged children, and adults in Namibia. Apart from this amazing Permaculture program that she facilitated, Ellen works with a number of disadvantaged community groups in Grootfontein, Kavango and surrounding areas. Ellen put a lot of ground work into the schools that I worked with her on. She not only organised the workshops with the schools, but also did a lot of preparation work with each school, building composts in readiness for my limited four week stay.
We then went to the demonstration garden and we put compost and mulch on the herb spiral and the garden surrounding the pond. We also fixed Ellen's compost which was too dry to be successful.
After lunch we waited till it was a bit cooler then went back to the garden to plant some plants. We put in a lot of herbs and all of the strawberry plants that the lady at the lodge had given us. Today was a fairly lazy day all things considered. We got up at about 8am again and had a leisurely breakfast before heading out to do some more shopping. Ellen needed a few supplies and I wanted to get some of the amazing local bushman honey and some rusks that I know Paul will love.
While we were out I saw two women in traditional dress with large terracotta pots on their heads. We stopped and I asked them if I could take a photo. They wanted to charge me $10 for the privilege. Ellen had warned me they might. She said not to pay them. They told me they were very hungry, which was interesting given they were both very overweight, which I chose not to point out to them. I didn't get my picture until later when they didn't know I got one from behind!
After lunch we waited till it was a bit cooler then went back to the garden to plant some plants. We put in a lot of herbs and all of the strawberry plants that the lady at the lodge had given us. Today was a fairly lazy day all things considered. We got up at about 8am again and had a leisurely breakfast before heading out to do some more shopping. Ellen needed a few supplies and I wanted to get some of the amazing local bushman honey and some rusks that I know Paul will love.
While we were out I saw two women in traditional dress with large terracotta pots on their heads. We stopped and I asked them if I could take a photo. They wanted to charge me $10 for the privilege. Ellen had warned me they might. She said not to pay them. They told me they were very hungry, which was interesting given they were both very overweight, which I chose not to point out to them. I didn't get my picture until later when they didn't know I got one from behind!
We then bought some supplies for dinner and Ellen is now cooking.
I have had really bad problems with my sinuses until today. It is so hot and dry here that they were producing huge amounts of mucus to protect themselves I think. I had heaps of blood coming out of my nose and it hurt to breath. I kept using my saline nasal spray to help, which it did to a small degree, but it was like I had a head cold when I didn't. This morning I thought to line my nostrils with some lanolin I had with me, and it has cured the whole problem! Its not cracked and bleeding any more and the production of mucus has cleared up. Amazing!
Ellen asked me today if I would like to go to church with them tomorrow. I decided I would go for the experience.
I have had really bad problems with my sinuses until today. It is so hot and dry here that they were producing huge amounts of mucus to protect themselves I think. I had heaps of blood coming out of my nose and it hurt to breath. I kept using my saline nasal spray to help, which it did to a small degree, but it was like I had a head cold when I didn't. This morning I thought to line my nostrils with some lanolin I had with me, and it has cured the whole problem! Its not cracked and bleeding any more and the production of mucus has cleared up. Amazing!
Ellen asked me today if I would like to go to church with them tomorrow. I decided I would go for the experience.
Sunday - a day of rest
I went for a walk this morning before church. Its the first heart-rate exercise I've had since I left home and I really needed it. I've been stretching every night though and that is keeping me feeling good in the body.
Here are a couple of images of the streets of Grootfontein:
Here are a couple of images of the streets of Grootfontein:
Ok, I went to church this morning. The young people who attended were dressed up to the nines! The girls looked like they were going to a ball. There was a lot of clapping and singing in the church, and the Pastor's wife lead the singing with a microphone at the front.
After church, Ellen took me to the Pastor's place for a morning tea he usually hosts for some of their friends. Wow! His place was a mansion which "he built himself". It was built out of a soft rock that looked like compacted clay to me, but he said it was limestone. It was cut from the local fountain which has ceased to exist since Windoek has been taking its water from the underground lake and thus lowered the water table. A beautiful, luxury residence full of antiques.
It is Pastor Boet who has in store for me, one of the greatest experiences of my life. He grew up in a remote location, where he played with a number of the San (commondly known as Bushmen) in his youth. He came to have a great deal of compassion for their plight, and now does what he can to help them. He is working on a project in conjunction with the Government, which gives them food for being involved in educational programs such as growing their own food. This is where I come in! Pastor Boet is taking me out to a remote community of Bushmen in a couple of weeks. They speak no English and are completely illiterate. Only a small number of them can speak and understand Africans. They live out in the middle of the Kalahari Desert with no electricity or services for hundreds of kilometers. This is going to be interesting!!
Ellen and I went back to the unit, and their volunteers from Kavango have arrived to stay for a while. Ellen was to accompany me out to Bushman Land, however she has now decided that Alex and Jellie (pronounced Yelly) will join me instead.
Alex and Jellie have brought water plants down from the river at Kavango. We are going to go and put them in the pond soon.
We went to dinner that night at a different place, however the menu was very limited and very fattening. The salad was drenched in mayonnaise and the only choice was steak or schnitzel. I have decided to cook my own food from now on, eating out like this isn't my style.
Ellen and I went back to the unit, and their volunteers from Kavango have arrived to stay for a while. Ellen was to accompany me out to Bushman Land, however she has now decided that Alex and Jellie (pronounced Yelly) will join me instead.
Alex and Jellie have brought water plants down from the river at Kavango. We are going to go and put them in the pond soon.
We went to dinner that night at a different place, however the menu was very limited and very fattening. The salad was drenched in mayonnaise and the only choice was steak or schnitzel. I have decided to cook my own food from now on, eating out like this isn't my style.
Shamalindi
I got up early and went for another walk. After breakfast we headed out of town to the farm school they have named Shamalindi.
When we arrived, there were children waiting for us at the entrance, and they put on a special greeting song and dance! They pinned a welcome flower to each of us too!
When we arrived, there were children waiting for us at the entrance, and they put on a special greeting song and dance! They pinned a welcome flower to each of us too!
Despite their incredible welcome, they were a shy lot. A tough crowd but only with the theory. As soon as we got outside, they were full of beans. Their teacher is an amazing woman who kept breaking out into song and getting the kids all revved up. I am in awe of this woman. She sings like a diva and doesn't care if she makes a fool of herself, which she actually doesn't, she can just be so funny. The kids absolutely adore her I can tell. She gets them all singing along to her wonderful songs, and it injects energy and enthusiasm into them.
We took them outside and built the beginnings of garden beds but they need more manure to continue. We dug the pond. We go back today to complete, with some more supplies.
Such beautiful children
We went back to the Shamalindi School to build the pond, banana circle and finish two of the garden beds. We also turned their previously-made compost. Their compost was the size of a small mountain and because they had covered it in plastic, had become anaerobic. It was absolutely rank! The kids had a ball digging it over however.
At lunch time, the kids were fed outside from a kitchen set up in a stone shed. The caretaker's wife had been cooking millie pup on an open fire all morning, which she dished out to everyone. This meal was often the only meal the children got in their day.
All the kids worked very hard and we brought them food which they loved. The school survives on funding for food from local business.
Back in the unit, I tried to give Ellen, Alex and Jellie a crash PDC, however it only lasted half an hour because Jellie felt sick. Both she and Alex have felt unwell since they arrived the poor things.
In the afternoon, we put some water plants into Ellen's new pond in order to keep them well until the morning, when we will take them out to the Shamalindi School for their pond.
Ellen cooked a lovely past for dinner, then she left to stay the night with a friend, as there is not enough room here for her now.
I had a good long chat to Alex and Jellie. They are really nice - I like them a lot. I invited them to come to Australia and visit.
Back in the unit, I tried to give Ellen, Alex and Jellie a crash PDC, however it only lasted half an hour because Jellie felt sick. Both she and Alex have felt unwell since they arrived the poor things.
In the afternoon, we put some water plants into Ellen's new pond in order to keep them well until the morning, when we will take them out to the Shamalindi School for their pond.
Ellen cooked a lovely past for dinner, then she left to stay the night with a friend, as there is not enough room here for her now.
I had a good long chat to Alex and Jellie. They are really nice - I like them a lot. I invited them to come to Australia and visit.
Shamalindi shine
We went back out to Shamalindi in the morning and built another mandala garden, and planted the root vegetables. We did the seed planting and finished off a raised mandala. These kids have worked so hard for this!
Alex was well today, but Jellie was still a bit off colour. Ellen also doesn't seem too good. I'm fine so far - touch wood.
Just as an aside, the milk here is unpasturised and as such I love it! The cream sits on the top, just like the old days. I admit to drinking just a bit too much of it.
The Grootfontein show starts this afternoon. This should be interesting.
We headed out to Ellen's plot at lunch time and we picked up a whole heap more stones. An old Bushman approached us to see if he could help. He worked so hard and Ellen gave him $10 which was a lot of money to him ($1.80AUD). We have asked him to come back tomorrow again. He was so pleased. With over 50% unemployment in Namibia, he was thrilled to get the work.
I showed Joseph (Ellen's gardener she has employed at the plot) how to make a raised garden bed and I made one with him. I then marked out another one and he made that by himself. He couldn't understand a thing I was saying to him either.
We then collected the water plants and went back out to plant everything at Shamalindi. We had arranged to go back later in the day to plant out, as the plants wouldn't have survived the shock in the heat of the day. To my utter amazement, all of the pupils turned up for it. Their school day finishes at 1pm, so to come back a long distance or to just stay was really lovely to see. They were very enthusiastic. We finished up and said goodbye. No tears this time.
Just as an aside, the milk here is unpasturised and as such I love it! The cream sits on the top, just like the old days. I admit to drinking just a bit too much of it.
The Grootfontein show starts this afternoon. This should be interesting.
We headed out to Ellen's plot at lunch time and we picked up a whole heap more stones. An old Bushman approached us to see if he could help. He worked so hard and Ellen gave him $10 which was a lot of money to him ($1.80AUD). We have asked him to come back tomorrow again. He was so pleased. With over 50% unemployment in Namibia, he was thrilled to get the work.
I showed Joseph (Ellen's gardener she has employed at the plot) how to make a raised garden bed and I made one with him. I then marked out another one and he made that by himself. He couldn't understand a thing I was saying to him either.
We then collected the water plants and went back out to plant everything at Shamalindi. We had arranged to go back later in the day to plant out, as the plants wouldn't have survived the shock in the heat of the day. To my utter amazement, all of the pupils turned up for it. Their school day finishes at 1pm, so to come back a long distance or to just stay was really lovely to see. They were very enthusiastic. We finished up and said goodbye. No tears this time.
We headed back to the unit, had a shower then hopped back in the car to go to the show.
We went into one of the food places and waited two hours for our food, and when it came it was not what we had ordered. No apology, nothing. Ellen wrote the manager a note outlining her issues and asked whether we really had to pay. After much deliberation, Ellen had to go up to the counter to discuss this further, whereby she was asked "did you eat your meal?" to which Ellen replied, "yes because after 2 hours of waiting we were starving." The woman then said "you eat, you pay". Ellen was so angry she turned around and said "no, I'm not" and we walked out! I was very surprised she had the bollocks.
The show had some great animals and the usual junk you can expect at a show.
We went into one of the food places and waited two hours for our food, and when it came it was not what we had ordered. No apology, nothing. Ellen wrote the manager a note outlining her issues and asked whether we really had to pay. After much deliberation, Ellen had to go up to the counter to discuss this further, whereby she was asked "did you eat your meal?" to which Ellen replied, "yes because after 2 hours of waiting we were starving." The woman then said "you eat, you pay". Ellen was so angry she turned around and said "no, I'm not" and we walked out! I was very surprised she had the bollocks.
The show had some great animals and the usual junk you can expect at a show.
A dream come true
Oh how excitement!!! We are going to Etosha National Park to see the wild animals. I didn't expect to have time or be in a position to do this, but Ellen suggested it and I offered to pay for the petrol and our room, so it's on!
We got up really early and set off. We had breakfast in Tsumeb on the way through although I had already had some bircher before we left.
It was a long drive, but eventually we got to the entrance of the park. The park necessarily has huge fences to contain elephants and reduce the risk of big cat escape to neighbouring land.
A big thank you to Alex for some of these photos, in fact usually the better ones are his. He had a far better camera than I did (and a lot more skill).
The first animal we saw in the park was a Dik Dik.
We got up really early and set off. We had breakfast in Tsumeb on the way through although I had already had some bircher before we left.
It was a long drive, but eventually we got to the entrance of the park. The park necessarily has huge fences to contain elephants and reduce the risk of big cat escape to neighbouring land.
A big thank you to Alex for some of these photos, in fact usually the better ones are his. He had a far better camera than I did (and a lot more skill).
The first animal we saw in the park was a Dik Dik.
We went on to see giraffes, a Cori Bastard bird, more girafes, vulchers, zebra, wilderbeast, cudu, meer cats and wart hogs.
We then checked in to the lodge where we are staying which was really luxurious, then took a look at the waterhole attached to the grounds that was in the park. You could sit in a seated area and overlook the animals at the waterhole. There was othing there at the time, so we went for another drive before dinner.
We then checked in to the lodge where we are staying which was really luxurious, then took a look at the waterhole attached to the grounds that was in the park. You could sit in a seated area and overlook the animals at the waterhole. There was othing there at the time, so we went for another drive before dinner.
Jellie and I wanted to see lions and Alex wanted to see elephants. Ellen told us that it was extremely rare to see either, so we should not get our hopes up.
Well within 2 minutes drive, I saw elephants. In fact for the whole time we were there, we saw so many elephants I can't remember. There was even one walking toward us on the road and it walked right passed us! We were very scared.
We then drove to a waterhole and there was a pride of lions laying by the water's edge. They had just had a kill and had eaten themselves to full their stomachs were bursting. They could barely move. What a sight!
Well within 2 minutes drive, I saw elephants. In fact for the whole time we were there, we saw so many elephants I can't remember. There was even one walking toward us on the road and it walked right passed us! We were very scared.
We then drove to a waterhole and there was a pride of lions laying by the water's edge. They had just had a kill and had eaten themselves to full their stomachs were bursting. They could barely move. What a sight!
We then went back for dinner to the lodge and I had a lovely buffet and tried springbok, which was very tasty. finally some rice, potatoes and vegetables rather than chips and salad drowned in sweet mayonnaise.
Our room is beautiful and there is an outdoor shower which I love. I want one at home!
After dinner I went and sat down by the waterhole for half an hour. Alex and Jellie joined me and we took some photos and had a nice time.
Our room is beautiful and there is an outdoor shower which I love. I want one at home!
After dinner I went and sat down by the waterhole for half an hour. Alex and Jellie joined me and we took some photos and had a nice time.
Can leopards change their spots?
I ducked down to the waterhole for half an hour before breakfast but there was nothing happening.
We checked out of the lodge and Ellen read the book to see what people had seen recently. She came running out and said someone had seen a leopard in a tree close by!
We got in the car and zoomed to the location and it was still there! It was hard to see but it was definitely there.
We checked out of the lodge and Ellen read the book to see what people had seen recently. She came running out and said someone had seen a leopard in a tree close by!
We got in the car and zoomed to the location and it was still there! It was hard to see but it was definitely there.
We then took a drive to the same waterhole where the lions were laid up yesterday, and they were closer to the road this time, in fact one of the males was right in the middle of the road. I could have reached out and touched him. Thought better of it though.
We drove around a bit more and left. The drive back to Grootfontein was uneventful. We stopped at the Spar for groceries for tonight and tomorrow night. Jellie is cooking.
We had a nice meal and then we watched our own slide show of the animals. My camera didn't take great shots but Alex gave me all of his, which were taken on an SLR and are much better.
We had a nice meal and then we watched our own slide show of the animals. My camera didn't take great shots but Alex gave me all of his, which were taken on an SLR and are much better.
Washing that dries in half an hour
Another Sunday. The others have gone to church, leaving me in blissful quiet. I put on a few loads of washing and hung them out. It is so dry here that it is very dry within half an hour. It normally takes a good 4 hours to dry at home.
The humidity would be close to 0 here. There is just no moisture in the air at all. All of the composts that we build are dry within no time. Its so difficult.
We have arranged to go over to the Pastor's place at 5pm to discuss the journey out to Bushman land. I need some exercise and Alex said he would come with me tonight after dark so I'll take him up on that offer. Then I will stretch.
Otherwise it was a lazy day.
The humidity would be close to 0 here. There is just no moisture in the air at all. All of the composts that we build are dry within no time. Its so difficult.
We have arranged to go over to the Pastor's place at 5pm to discuss the journey out to Bushman land. I need some exercise and Alex said he would come with me tonight after dark so I'll take him up on that offer. Then I will stretch.
Otherwise it was a lazy day.
Tsumeb Etosha School
Thanks to Ellen for providing some great photos of the prep work she did with the kids at the Etosha School. They planted a lot of lucern and built a compost ready for my visit.
Our first day at the school was great. Its a high school and all of the kids were quite old (most were doing the equivalent of their HSC). They understood everything very well and were eager participants in the garden.
I decided to terrace part of their garden due to a slope, and we built a pond and banana circle, and scribed some keyhole beds to make tomorrow.
I decided to terrace part of their garden due to a slope, and we built a pond and banana circle, and scribed some keyhole beds to make tomorrow.
The head teacher was a scream. She lived onsite and was really like a mother to most of the children that boarded at the school. She had adopted many of them legally. She had a little Jack Russel dog called Boetie, which means 'mate' in Africans.
she invited a friend of hers and his colleague to join us for the next PDC course I was meant to be giving. He is a horticultural advisor in Japan and just loved the Permaculture concept. He joined us for two evenings where I gave some PDC content. He said he is going to implement Permaculture wherever he goes now. He is currently working with schools in Africa up North.
she invited a friend of hers and his colleague to join us for the next PDC course I was meant to be giving. He is a horticultural advisor in Japan and just loved the Permaculture concept. He joined us for two evenings where I gave some PDC content. He said he is going to implement Permaculture wherever he goes now. He is currently working with schools in Africa up North.
Tsumeb SOS School
The SOS school went better than I expected it might, with many old women and small children attending.
We kept their beds simple but the kids really got in to it, as did many of the women.
We did no theory because their learning capacity was much lower than the high school and wouldn't have had the attention span being such young children.
We kept their beds simple but the kids really got in to it, as did many of the women.
We did no theory because their learning capacity was much lower than the high school and wouldn't have had the attention span being such young children.
Well THAT stopped me in my tracks
I'm sitting in the house we are renting at Tsumeb. The others have gone to the SOS project to finish up, but I woke up with a bad cough and feel very unwell, so I didn't go with them.I slept for 5 hours this morning and can't do anything physical at all! I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow as there is something just not right.
The guys got back from the project just after 6pm. They had had to do most of the work as the kids were just too small and the old women couldn't do much. The pictures look great though. They completed a pond and banana circle and all of the beds. And surprise surprise, their compost was ready! It was the only place that had successful compost, so they used it!
The guys packed everything up in the house while I waited, as I simply couldn't do anything. We headed off and got some Hungry Lion for dinner on the road because Ellen didn't want to drive in the dark. Something I understood, given the number of large animals you are likely to hit. Hungry Lion was like KFC, thus the chips were nicer with a spice on them.
Back in Grootfontein, everyone else unpacked while I did nothing again. Had a shower and went to bed.
The guys got back from the project just after 6pm. They had had to do most of the work as the kids were just too small and the old women couldn't do much. The pictures look great though. They completed a pond and banana circle and all of the beds. And surprise surprise, their compost was ready! It was the only place that had successful compost, so they used it!
The guys packed everything up in the house while I waited, as I simply couldn't do anything. We headed off and got some Hungry Lion for dinner on the road because Ellen didn't want to drive in the dark. Something I understood, given the number of large animals you are likely to hit. Hungry Lion was like KFC, thus the chips were nicer with a spice on them.
Back in Grootfontein, everyone else unpacked while I did nothing again. Had a shower and went to bed.
A witch doctor?
Just sitting in the unit at Grootfontein having a cup of tea and a rusk. I am taking some of these rusks home for Paul as we don't get them in Australia. I am also taking him the national dish which is maize meal. You can make porridge with it. Also, some Bushman honey which is supposed to be a local honey but which I notice is a product of Zambia. Not sure what that's all about.
It looks as though Alex and Jellie will be coming to Bushman land with me now rather than Ellen and Leonie.
This cough really getting me down. I see a doctor at 12.
The Doctor said I have bronchitis and its the flue going around the town. She gave me a shot of Cortisone and some Prednisone tablets and cough syrup. [When I got back to Australia and went to my own doctor she was outraged at the medicine they had prescribed for me].
I started feeling better quite soon and Ellen picked me up and went to join the others at Spar for lunch. I managed very well all things considering, then they dropped me back off at the unit and I slept and read for the rest of the day.
Jellie has come back for a shower but Ellen wants to keep going with the garden, so she's taken Joseph the gardener and Alex back to keep on keeping on.
Ellen said she will cook late so we have agreed to go out again. Its very cheap to eat out here but the quality is rarely good. The exception was Dros at Tsumeb, which was very acceptable with a bistro style and nicely done.
We are due to leave tomorrow morning for Kavango for 2 nights, then we come back to meet up with Pastor Boet at 6pm on Monday to pack and then set out for Bushman land. I really must find out what they like to be called because they don't like being called 'Bushmen'.
According to Ellen, the Bushmen were nomadic and hunted for survival before the days of settlement. Like the Aboriginals, they are not allowed to live this lifestyle any longer, as fences now define land ownership, so they have been resettled to the Kalahari Desert. Sound familiar?
There is talk about letting them live in Etosha and allowing them to hunt for their own survival. Debate continues and I can certainly see the pros and cons. Ultimately though, if they were not allowed to use guns but traditional methods only, I think it is a wonderful idea.
It looks as though Alex and Jellie will be coming to Bushman land with me now rather than Ellen and Leonie.
This cough really getting me down. I see a doctor at 12.
The Doctor said I have bronchitis and its the flue going around the town. She gave me a shot of Cortisone and some Prednisone tablets and cough syrup. [When I got back to Australia and went to my own doctor she was outraged at the medicine they had prescribed for me].
I started feeling better quite soon and Ellen picked me up and went to join the others at Spar for lunch. I managed very well all things considering, then they dropped me back off at the unit and I slept and read for the rest of the day.
Jellie has come back for a shower but Ellen wants to keep going with the garden, so she's taken Joseph the gardener and Alex back to keep on keeping on.
Ellen said she will cook late so we have agreed to go out again. Its very cheap to eat out here but the quality is rarely good. The exception was Dros at Tsumeb, which was very acceptable with a bistro style and nicely done.
We are due to leave tomorrow morning for Kavango for 2 nights, then we come back to meet up with Pastor Boet at 6pm on Monday to pack and then set out for Bushman land. I really must find out what they like to be called because they don't like being called 'Bushmen'.
According to Ellen, the Bushmen were nomadic and hunted for survival before the days of settlement. Like the Aboriginals, they are not allowed to live this lifestyle any longer, as fences now define land ownership, so they have been resettled to the Kalahari Desert. Sound familiar?
There is talk about letting them live in Etosha and allowing them to hunt for their own survival. Debate continues and I can certainly see the pros and cons. Ultimately though, if they were not allowed to use guns but traditional methods only, I think it is a wonderful idea.
The trip to Kavango
We had breakfast at the coffee shop then headed North. The Kavango area is bordered and when you pass into it, its like entering a totally different country. There are communities of huts everywhere, the trees are much greener, there are children riding donkeys. Women carry water on their heads and there is little to no electricity used here.
Water pitchers are being sold on the side of the road, women carry large wood piles on their heads. Cattle roam free on the side of the road. The huts are wood and stone and mud construction with thatched roofs and the bit of corrugated iron thrown in for good measure occasionally. They call it zinc but its not.
Water pitchers are being sold on the side of the road, women carry large wood piles on their heads. Cattle roam free on the side of the road. The huts are wood and stone and mud construction with thatched roofs and the bit of corrugated iron thrown in for good measure occasionally. They call it zinc but its not.
These villages don't pay rent but are allowed to live there by the king of the area.
We just stopped and Ellen bought me a local orange. It has a rock-hard shell and I went to bash them together and she said to be careful because they can burst and go everywhere. They apparently look like brains inside. They call them Mahumi.
I eventually tried them later on and couldn't eat much of it.
We just stopped and Ellen bought me a local orange. It has a rock-hard shell and I went to bash them together and she said to be careful because they can burst and go everywhere. They apparently look like brains inside. They call them Mahumi.
I eventually tried them later on and couldn't eat much of it.
We got to Tjova, the remote area in which they lived, and we unpacked. They've got me in a large tent with my own external kitchen and external bathroom. I'm very comfortable and feel safe from spiders in my tent.
I guess I should be more scared of mosquitoes as they carry malaria here and I'm not taking any tablets.
This is such a beautiful spot and I would recommend it to anyone wanting a great nature-filled camping experience.
I washed my hair in the river earlier and just had a hot shower. I'm now heading over to the main house for dinner.
My cold and bronchitis seems to be much improved. Must have been the Cortisone.
I guess I should be more scared of mosquitoes as they carry malaria here and I'm not taking any tablets.
This is such a beautiful spot and I would recommend it to anyone wanting a great nature-filled camping experience.
I washed my hair in the river earlier and just had a hot shower. I'm now heading over to the main house for dinner.
My cold and bronchitis seems to be much improved. Must have been the Cortisone.
Alex and Jellie have been living here for the better part of 12 months. You can see Jellie standing in her kitchen here. On the left of that shot is her bathroom. It is incredible how primitive their lifestyle has been but I guess its been like comfortable camping in a way.
Paradise lost?
Well unfortunately I feel like crap, which is such a shame because this such a beautiful place.
I'm sitting by the river under a thatched hut. The turkeys and chicks, chickens and chicks wander by. The fish jump for insects in the river. Huge black and white bumble bees zed by, and there is a constant gentle hum of small native honey bees everywhere.
Ellen and Leonie have lived here for years, but they have come under attack by the local King. They don't like them being here any longer and have sent round thugs to rough them up from time to time. They are very scared and have decided they can't stay any longer. They know that the volunteers are safe, but they themselves are not. This is why they have moved to Grootfontien and leave this to volunteers and local employees to look after now.
Alex has just gone down to the pool to land a fish. We'll see.
I've just had a swim in order to feel a bit better. Its so very hot.
Bird song everywhere, kingfishers diving into the water. Bell frogs at night along with a cacophony of other frogs drumming the night away.
I've done very little today, just want to sleep really.
I can't get over the incredible lack of unnatural noise here. I can hear the rapids downstream, a rooster, birds, bees, chickens, turkeys, fish jumping, chickens wandering and scratching in the undergrowth. My god though I'm tired.
They have buffallo here as well as otters, cobras and bush babies (and I saw one). Tomorrow we are going to another animal park.
I am very dizzy all the time. I'm not sure why. I wish I'd get well.
We all went out on the boat for a ride on the river tonight.
I'm sitting by the river under a thatched hut. The turkeys and chicks, chickens and chicks wander by. The fish jump for insects in the river. Huge black and white bumble bees zed by, and there is a constant gentle hum of small native honey bees everywhere.
Ellen and Leonie have lived here for years, but they have come under attack by the local King. They don't like them being here any longer and have sent round thugs to rough them up from time to time. They are very scared and have decided they can't stay any longer. They know that the volunteers are safe, but they themselves are not. This is why they have moved to Grootfontien and leave this to volunteers and local employees to look after now.
Alex has just gone down to the pool to land a fish. We'll see.
I've just had a swim in order to feel a bit better. Its so very hot.
Bird song everywhere, kingfishers diving into the water. Bell frogs at night along with a cacophony of other frogs drumming the night away.
I've done very little today, just want to sleep really.
I can't get over the incredible lack of unnatural noise here. I can hear the rapids downstream, a rooster, birds, bees, chickens, turkeys, fish jumping, chickens wandering and scratching in the undergrowth. My god though I'm tired.
They have buffallo here as well as otters, cobras and bush babies (and I saw one). Tomorrow we are going to another animal park.
I am very dizzy all the time. I'm not sure why. I wish I'd get well.
We all went out on the boat for a ride on the river tonight.
More animals - Mohongo
I'm still unwell, but we headed off to Mohongo Park. We have seen some more animals we didn't see at Etosha; Baboons, Hippos, Bush Bok, Rhone Antelope, Sable Antelope and Blue Ball Monkey.
I started those antibiotics this morning and am now feeling a bit better. Maybe they are working?
I started those antibiotics this morning and am now feeling a bit better. Maybe they are working?
We stopped at a lodge on the way back and the owner treated us to a boat ride to see some hippos! It was great but I felt terrible.
We had pancakes for dinner and I went straight to bed. [I have to say one thing for the Dutch, they know how to make a pancake! Well done Jellie].
We had pancakes for dinner and I went straight to bed. [I have to say one thing for the Dutch, they know how to make a pancake! Well done Jellie].
The trip back to Grootfontein
Still no better, although a bit rested. I've had a shower in the amazing outdoor contraption Ellen had built. Its like a tank up on a tower that they pump water into from the river, you light a small fire in this metal thing and it heats the water as it runs through the pipes, giving you completely free hot water - on tap! The water is so soft and luxurious after the nasty stuff in Grootfontein.
We packed the car and headed off. I traveled back in the old 4WD with Jellie and Alex and lay down in the back seat and went to sleep nearly the whole way.
We stopped at an internet cafe in Rundu and then again for a piece of pottery I wanted from the side of the road. This was very poor pottery fired at a low temperature that was sold all over Kavango province. [I managed to bring it home unbroken and it survived for a few years before it was knocked and fell; breaking into a number of shards. I glued it back together and still have it though, I really love it.]
We rested at the Grootfontein unit for an hour, did some washing and then went out for supplies and then met up with Pastor Boet to make sure we had everything for our camping trip.
I managed to stay up till 9 talking with the guys.
We packed the car and headed off. I traveled back in the old 4WD with Jellie and Alex and lay down in the back seat and went to sleep nearly the whole way.
We stopped at an internet cafe in Rundu and then again for a piece of pottery I wanted from the side of the road. This was very poor pottery fired at a low temperature that was sold all over Kavango province. [I managed to bring it home unbroken and it survived for a few years before it was knocked and fell; breaking into a number of shards. I glued it back together and still have it though, I really love it.]
We rested at the Grootfontein unit for an hour, did some washing and then went out for supplies and then met up with Pastor Boet to make sure we had everything for our camping trip.
I managed to stay up till 9 talking with the guys.
The 'Bushmen' of the Kalahari Desert
When I returned to Australia, I put together the document below, in an effort to educate people as to the plight of the Bushmen and raise money for a water tank for them.
We left Grootfontein early at 7am. 60 kilometers into the road trip and the car started making a terrible noise. We stopped and took the wheel off where the noise was coming from, and tried again but we couldn't fix it. We were worried, but decided to keep on going. We hit a gravel road and continued on to Tsumkwe (pronounced Choomkwee), which was like a small border town of some 5 people and then a further 20 kilometers to a tiny village in the middle of nowhere.
We pulled into the church yard which was large. The church was basically a roof with concrete block walls and some bench seating inside. The floor was just sand like the rest of the village. It did have a beautiful tree for shade though.
We pulled into the church yard which was large. The church was basically a roof with concrete block walls and some bench seating inside. The floor was just sand like the rest of the village. It did have a beautiful tree for shade though.
We were greeted by the village elder, who was surprisingly young. I was told that he was an elder not because of his age, but because of his involvement in the church, which was run by a local pastor. He spoke Africans and Bushman and understood English to a degree. He was one clever cookie let me tell you!
There is no way that I will be able to describe this visit well enough to explain the depth that these people touched me and how incredible they are, but I shall try.
The Bushman (who prefer to be called San, so I will from now on) have no access to electricity and only have intermittent water provision via a tap which is fed from a pump some way down the road from a bore. The problem is, the pump needs diesel to run, and they rarely have the money to buy it, and if they do have th emoney, they have to wait for a delivery of fuel which is rare. If they manage to get the pump going, it provides water to the rich black cattle-owners in the area first, then their cattle and then it goes to the San's single tap.
The group that has been chosen to work with me on the Permaculture project were some amazing folk. They were chosen because they had 'signed up' to learn how to grow their own food in exchange for provision of food by the Government.
They worked incredibly hard, demonstrated a team work and community second to none, and soaked up every bit of knowledge I could impart. They hung on my every word and were so honestly keen and committed to growing their own food. They were so incredibly grateful to me for visiting them and they demonstrated this in so many ways.
They ate one meal a day, which was around 3pm. They stopped work for lunch and each had a cup of weak black tea, no milk, no sugar. The tea bags that had obviously been used many many times were laid out to dry on a sheet of black plastic for another use.
I was deeply moved to be allowed to visit their huts and see inside some. Poverty is an obvious word to use for their circumstance, and yet it is not really the right one. They do go hungry, so yes they are poor, but their life is so unique and rich it its lack of complication, it its primitive existence. I saw so much beauty in their continued life being so untouched by western "civilisation" and "necessities". I doubt they would have agreed with me of course, but their simple life had such richness of community. And what beautiful people!
The Bushman (who prefer to be called San, so I will from now on) have no access to electricity and only have intermittent water provision via a tap which is fed from a pump some way down the road from a bore. The problem is, the pump needs diesel to run, and they rarely have the money to buy it, and if they do have th emoney, they have to wait for a delivery of fuel which is rare. If they manage to get the pump going, it provides water to the rich black cattle-owners in the area first, then their cattle and then it goes to the San's single tap.
The group that has been chosen to work with me on the Permaculture project were some amazing folk. They were chosen because they had 'signed up' to learn how to grow their own food in exchange for provision of food by the Government.
They worked incredibly hard, demonstrated a team work and community second to none, and soaked up every bit of knowledge I could impart. They hung on my every word and were so honestly keen and committed to growing their own food. They were so incredibly grateful to me for visiting them and they demonstrated this in so many ways.
They ate one meal a day, which was around 3pm. They stopped work for lunch and each had a cup of weak black tea, no milk, no sugar. The tea bags that had obviously been used many many times were laid out to dry on a sheet of black plastic for another use.
I was deeply moved to be allowed to visit their huts and see inside some. Poverty is an obvious word to use for their circumstance, and yet it is not really the right one. They do go hungry, so yes they are poor, but their life is so unique and rich it its lack of complication, it its primitive existence. I saw so much beauty in their continued life being so untouched by western "civilisation" and "necessities". I doubt they would have agreed with me of course, but their simple life had such richness of community. And what beautiful people!
And yes, this is where the San live. It drops below 0 degrees during winter at night time out here, and they have very little to keep them warm.
A couple of other chaps from neighbouring villages were allowed to attend my workshop. The gardens we are building today are to be located on one man's land that also runs the local 'Visitor's Centre'; a tin shed with some hand made souvenirs for sale. He has donated his land to the people as a community garden.
I take a look at the site, which is right next to the village's tap, which makes this workshop a little easier than it might have been. I decide that rather than making raised garden beds, we would be better to dig down into the earth and make our no-dig gardens in the trenches. An oh, these San are very intelligent people. With English, arms waiving and diagrams drawn in the dirt, they started to make no-dig garden beds out of materials they had never thought to use.
Old women joined in pounding dry dung, children soaked dry grass in water, men dug trenches. We built a pond and a banana circle. They worked tirelessly all day without food, clicking away to each other in their native language.
I take a look at the site, which is right next to the village's tap, which makes this workshop a little easier than it might have been. I decide that rather than making raised garden beds, we would be better to dig down into the earth and make our no-dig gardens in the trenches. An oh, these San are very intelligent people. With English, arms waiving and diagrams drawn in the dirt, they started to make no-dig garden beds out of materials they had never thought to use.
Old women joined in pounding dry dung, children soaked dry grass in water, men dug trenches. We built a pond and a banana circle. They worked tirelessly all day without food, clicking away to each other in their native language.
I can't say Jellie, Alex, Boet or I worked tirelessly all day without food, and we stopped at midday to eat. I didn't realise at the time that they didn't have food, and realised half-way through a ham and salad role that they were all watching us. I am deeply ashamed of my lack of awareness and sensitivity.
The kids played around the church grounds regardless, and Jellie can be seen here taking photos of them with the digital camera, then showing them their picture. They were endlessly fascinated with the game and they all wanted their picture taken.
Its pretty hard to look into their faces and realise that the San are a minority people who are not recognised by the Government and are considered lower on the pecking order than cattle.
The kids played around the church grounds regardless, and Jellie can be seen here taking photos of them with the digital camera, then showing them their picture. They were endlessly fascinated with the game and they all wanted their picture taken.
Its pretty hard to look into their faces and realise that the San are a minority people who are not recognised by the Government and are considered lower on the pecking order than cattle.
Pastor Boet provides this village with food occasionally from funding he has managed to get through different organisations, but that is just corn/maize meal. They get no fruit or vegetables in their diet at all.
The San have always been hunter/gatherers but have been allocated this land and restricted, so they can no longer live their nomadic lifestyle. They are not farming people, so this exercise is going to be interesting to see how long they are able to sustain it.
They have a craft shop here which was a tin shack that had clearly not seen a tourist for years. They get no tourists at this village and all of the artifacts in the little shed are made by the village people. I bought a mobile, some jewellery and an amazing knife. These are real artifacts, not the mass-produced stuff you find everywhere else, and I'm really pleased to be helping them financially. [Back in Australia at customs, they took the jewellery off me (they were seeds made into beads), they cut one of the things off the mobile because it was a seed, but they let me in with the knife because it was JUST big enough to NOT be considered a concealed weapon - go figure!]
Here we are pictured with the men who made the knives, along with a couple of pics of the inside of the 'craft shop'.
The San have always been hunter/gatherers but have been allocated this land and restricted, so they can no longer live their nomadic lifestyle. They are not farming people, so this exercise is going to be interesting to see how long they are able to sustain it.
They have a craft shop here which was a tin shack that had clearly not seen a tourist for years. They get no tourists at this village and all of the artifacts in the little shed are made by the village people. I bought a mobile, some jewellery and an amazing knife. These are real artifacts, not the mass-produced stuff you find everywhere else, and I'm really pleased to be helping them financially. [Back in Australia at customs, they took the jewellery off me (they were seeds made into beads), they cut one of the things off the mobile because it was a seed, but they let me in with the knife because it was JUST big enough to NOT be considered a concealed weapon - go figure!]
Here we are pictured with the men who made the knives, along with a couple of pics of the inside of the 'craft shop'.
After our hard day's work, we headed out of the village to the local Pastor's property, where he allows people to camp and has surrounded a large area with thorns to stop wild animals coming in. Good oh!
Boet is well-equipped. We have a camping toilet and shower, big canvass tents, fridge and cooking equipment. We're fine, and we set ourselves up, cooked up a simple meal and because I am still feeling very unwell and the cough is persistent, I went to bed.
Boet is well-equipped. We have a camping toilet and shower, big canvass tents, fridge and cooking equipment. We're fine, and we set ourselves up, cooked up a simple meal and because I am still feeling very unwell and the cough is persistent, I went to bed.
The gratitude was overwhelming
Today I woke up and feel much much better, the enegery has returned thank goodness!
We continued the gardening all day.
We continued the gardening all day.
When the gardens were built, we did the Seed Raising Workshop, and we all sat around and they picked my brains for all they were worth! When I spoke, the Elder listened, Boet translated to him what he understood I had said, then he spoke to the San in Bushman language. If someone had a question, they asked the Elder, who asked Boet, who asked me. This went on for about 2 hours, sitting in the shade of a tree, everyone very quiet and listening to everything very intently. I really did my best to impart just as much of my knowledge ask I could to these marvelous people, but the longer I went on and the more questions were asked, the more I realised I needed to live with them for about 6-12 months to really help them grasp this farming way of life.
I discussed options for ongoing gardens with Boet and the Village Elder. With the church being the only real 'roof' in the village capable of catching rain, it is the obvious choice for the installation of water tanks. In fact it is such a large structure, that 5-6 large water tanks lining the southern side of the building would not be a bad idea.
They only get rain here in December; the rest of the year is dry, but when it rains, it rains hard and heavy almost non-stop for that month. They could easily fill that many rainwater tanks during that time, and then have access to good water for many months afterwards.
The church yard is the perfect place for a community garden too, as it is central to the village, and not used for any real purpose at all. It would need to be fenced however, to keep goats out, and that will require funding, as will the water tanks. I am filled with purpose upon going back to Australia; I want to raise enough money to have these tanks installed and the fencing erected. [Back in Australia I found it virtually impossible to raise money for people outside of Australia. People don't like giving money for overseas aid, and the Australian government won't hear of it. Pastor Boet even told me that while it was a nice idea, the reality was that anything installed in this location would be destroyed and vandalised by jealous neighbours and that even if we could find someone to provide and install the materials, ongoing maintenance would be a big issue. He eventually talked me out of doing anything at all].
They only get rain here in December; the rest of the year is dry, but when it rains, it rains hard and heavy almost non-stop for that month. They could easily fill that many rainwater tanks during that time, and then have access to good water for many months afterwards.
The church yard is the perfect place for a community garden too, as it is central to the village, and not used for any real purpose at all. It would need to be fenced however, to keep goats out, and that will require funding, as will the water tanks. I am filled with purpose upon going back to Australia; I want to raise enough money to have these tanks installed and the fencing erected. [Back in Australia I found it virtually impossible to raise money for people outside of Australia. People don't like giving money for overseas aid, and the Australian government won't hear of it. Pastor Boet even told me that while it was a nice idea, the reality was that anything installed in this location would be destroyed and vandalised by jealous neighbours and that even if we could find someone to provide and install the materials, ongoing maintenance would be a big issue. He eventually talked me out of doing anything at all].
As we were leaving, I gave the San the 5 large plastic water bottles I had left in the car. You would have thought I had just handed them gold. They were so chuffed!
I also made friends with an old man who had terrible pain in his knees. I gave him a card of Paracetamol that I had in my bag. He nearly cried with gratitude. That old man thanked me with a long speech, just he and I, in his native tongue, which of course I couldn't understand, but I did understand. I don't think anyone has ever thanked me for something quite the way he did. He thanked me for coming to teach them a skill they needed so badly. The depth of gratitude was so humbling. I hugged him 3 times and was crying by the time I walked away.
We camped for our 2nd and last night out in Bushman Land.
